The following article, written by Séverine Ginot, is part of a series of reflections on the upcoming International Union for the Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) World Conservation Congress to be held in Abu Dhabi, October 2025. The series entitled “Classroom to Congress” examines proposed motions by the Global Center for Environmental Legal Studies (GCELS) at the Elisabeth Haub School of Law at Pace University on a variety of environmental issues to be decided at the Congress. The articles in this series were developed through a guided research program for Pace | Haub Environmental Law students.
The Pricey Fast Fashion Industry: Tackling Its Hidden Costs for Wildlife, Workers and Communities in Southern and Southeastern Asia
When considering ideas for my motion, I was immediately reminded of a documentary I had watched years ago. The vivid images of water bodies in Asia, dyed an unnatural electric blue from textile industry waste, left an indelible mark on my memory. While plastic pollution dominates discussions on environmental threats to water, another crisis remains largely overlooked: the chemical pollution caused by textile manufacturing. This silent but devastating issue affects aquatic ecosystems, biodiversity, and local communities.
My generation has grown up under relentless pressure to update our wardrobes, fueled by the rise of ultra-low-cost online fashion retailers. Meanwhile, Europe is intensifying scrutiny on textile production and pushing for a circular economy, signaling a unique opportunity to address a critical environmental threat in Southern and Southeastern Asia.
The Hidden Environmental Cost of Fast Fashion
Countries from this region have become the world’s textile production hub, with the market valued at $1.11 trillion in 2024. Employing over 75 million people, this industry is expected to grow at an annual rate of 4.2%. While fast fashion is a key economic driver, it poses a significant threat to biodiversity and public health. The World Bank estimates that 20% of global industrial wastewater pollution originates from the textile industry.
A major contributor to this crisis is the widespread use of hazardous chemicals in textile production. The textile sector is the largest consumer of PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), accounting for 36% of a 26,000-ton market in 2015—a figure expected to rise. The most dangerous phase of production is wet processing, which includes dyeing, finishing, and printing. These processes discharge massive quantities of hazardous substances into the environment, contaminating surface waters and releasing toxic pollutants into the air.
Despite the environmental risks, cost-cutting pressures mean that factories often neglect proper wastewater treatment. In Bangladesh, for example, only 556 factories report having Effluent Treatment Plants (ETPs), but just 18 have installed remote monitoring systems for oversight. According to the Environment and Social Development Organization (ESDO), fewer than 1% of textile factories in Bangladesh consistently operate their ETPs—they only run them during inspections. Moreover, in many producing countries, ETPs are not even a legal requirement, further exacerbating the crisis.
A Ripple Effect on Ecosystems and Communities
The unchecked release of chemicals into rivers and groundwater has tragic consequences for workers, local communities, and wildlife. Among the millions working in the textile sector, 75% are women, who bear the brunt of exposure to hazardous substances. Polluted rivers not only disrupt aquatic ecosystems but also contaminate drinking water supplies, putting human populations at risk.
Species that depend on these water sources, whether for drinking or habitat, absorb these toxic substances. Many of these chemicals persist in the environment, bioaccumulate in animal tissues, and disrupt biological functions—often leading to mortality. Humans consuming contaminated fish and other wildlife also accumulate these chemicals in their bodies, with long-term health repercussions.
This issue is particularly urgent in Southern and Southeastern Asia, home to numerous Key Biodiversity Areas. Wetlands, which serve as crucial habitats for countless species, are especially vulnerable. Polluted rivers, in turn, flow into the ocean, contributing to broader marine ecosystem degradation.
Why the IUCN Must Act
Building on the work of private initiatives and UNEP-led programs, four Southern Asian countries have voluntarily taken steps to address this crisis. However, a fragmented approach is not enough. The IUCN must play a central role in driving systemic change.
According to UNEP’s Project Information Form (PIF), three root causes hinder progress:
- Lack of knowledge – Many facilities, retailers, brands, and consumers are unaware of the full environmental impact of textile production.
- Limited technical capacity – Small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) often lack in-house chemical expertise and resources to implement safer alternatives, leading to either “business-as-usual” approaches or the adoption of equally harmful substitute chemicals.
- Absence of regulatory incentives – Without legal frameworks pushing for change, cost-competitiveness continues to outweigh sustainability efforts. Financial subsidies and investment flows still support environmentally damaging practices.
To break this cycle, the PIF document advocates for a transition to a circular economy, a shift that requires bold and coordinated action.
A Call to Action
This motion was meant to urge IUCN members and commissions to invest in research on chemical inventories, risk reduction strategies, and sustainable innovations. It also called for the development of a collaboration platform to share best practices and promote regulatory frameworks, liability regimes, and incentives that hold polluters accountable. Moreover, to drive systemic change, the transition to a circular economy must be accompanied by awareness campaigns targeting both brands and consumers. It was supported by the AWAZ Foundation (Center for Development Services – Pakistan), the Coastal Area Resource Development and Management Association (Bangladesh), the Fondation pour la protection de la Biodiversité Marine (Haiti), the Fundacion Malpelo (Colombia), and the Water, Environment & Sanitation Society (Pakistan).
While the motion did not pass review by the Motions Working Group due to concerns that it was beyond IUCN’s scope, the Congress Preparatory Committee expressed interest in the matter and recommended future negotiations for the integration of some motion paragraphs into the IUCN Commission’s mandates. Given the urgent need for action, cosponsors voiced frustration at the outcome. However, this process marked an important first step in raising awareness of the issue within the IUCN. In fact, it was not so long ago that IUCN regarded climate change as outside its scope. Since climate change is now an underlying focus of the IUCN’s work, perhaps a future motion on halting chemical pollution by textile industries in South and Southeast Asian water bodies will fare better.
Fast fashion’s hidden costs must no longer be ignored.
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